SIHH 2016: The Velvet Secret Heart
SIHH 2016: The Velvet Secret Heart
The magnetic Velvet Secret Heart woman is infinitely intense, compelling... In a word, irresistible. She is keenly aware that the most effective form of influence is wielded not by shows of strength, but instead by the natural allure of self- confidence grounded in self-knowledge and inner qualities.
Exactly like its owner who wields her influence by not wearing her heart on her sleeve, the Velvet Secret Heart conceals its inner complexities beneath a beguiling exterior that only hints at the mechanical heart beating inside.
Two rows of sparkling brilliant-cut diamonds frame the bezel and the inner bezel ring, surrounding two arcs of a circle bearing the Arabic date numerals that in turn frame radiating Roman numerals and the classic tonneau-shaped centre of the Velvet...
Their pure white sparkle is echoed by the numerous pristine white dial accents, including 6 and 12 o’clock numerals, hour-markers, date indicator transfers, transferred inscriptions and even the delicate white gold filet surrounding the barrel-shaped centre. This beguiling timepiece boldly proclaims the fact that this is a Diva who likes to do things differently and who revels in paradoxes.
Almost like a Russian doll, or like swathes of velvety fabric with a sparkling trim, the successive semi-circles can be ‘read’ both as opening up towards the exterior, or as gently guiding the gaze towards the heart of its true nature: the central tonneau shape that creates the inimitable trompe l’oeil effect.
Except in this instance, this creation harbours a second, ‘secret’ heart that remains truly hidden, in an ultimate touch of feminine coquetry. Amid several fascinating plays on symmetry accentuating the distinctive charm of this model, the curved layout of the slanting Roman numerals and the extra-large upright XII and VI conjure up visions of a precious vase, brimming with the magic of time.
A double secret
The mechanical self-winding RD821B movement with its double-retrograde date function makes an ideal match for the tonneau shape since it follows the symmetry of the dial and sensually hugs its every curve. This is the first ever complication to enrich the Velvet collection, thus endowing it with a touch of fascinatingly original technicality. The choice of the bi-retrograde display is typical of Roger Dubuis’ penchant for marrying aesthetic and technical aspects of its creations, since the design of the dial and case provide a perfect setting for such an original display.
In this respect, Product Strategy Director Gregory Bruttin provides some fascinating insights into the thinking behind this visually and functionally intriguing creation. “While Roger Dubuis has a history of providing retrograde calendar displays that have become embedded in its DNA and has acquired considerable expertise in this field, there were two main reasons behind our decision to use this kind of approach on the Velvet Secret Heart. Firstly, the smaller (36mm) diameter of a ladies’ watch made it even more important to ensure the readability of this indication that is eminently useful in daily life and not merely decorative. And secondly, the choice of abi-retrogradeinterpretationprovidedeven more space and enabled us to accentuate the intensely magnetic femininity of the dial by opening up an almost 360° panorama and hiding the hands.”
Right at first glance, the way the numerals descend on either side of the dial – but in ascending order – tells the observer that this is no ordinary watch, just as its wearer is no ordinary woman. There is something clearly preternatural going on here that precludes the presence of classic hands sweeping in a clockwise direction. Driven by the new RD821B calibre, each hand in turn completes its travel down the voluptuous path of time and then jumps back to the start of its journey and disappears entirely as the other one takes over.
Yet these intricacies remain almost entirely invisible, merely hinting at hidden depths discreetly suggested by the dainty crescent tip of the single date gently cupping each date in turn as if to embrace the day... An eminently technical mechanism there- by succeeds in suffusing a romantic glow that draws upon sophisticated techni- cal know-how to stir profound emotions. And the secret heart of the bi-retrograde jumping date regularly skips a beat very much like that of the Diva who will adopt one of these eight boutique-exclusive creations. Each is fitted with an opulent ultramarine blue alligator leather strap perfectly matching the mesmerising shade of the dial and admirably complementing its exquisite femininity.
Supremely fulfilling the desires of a woman who demands a timepiece that is both gorgeous to look at and magnificently technical, the Velvet Secret Heart bi- retrograde model exercises a powerful attraction entirely in tune with the magnetic facet of feminine nature. Its intense and compelling technical core capitalises on the strength of secrecy, irresistibly drawing the gaze to its outer beauty and the mind to its intriguing interior.
Roger Dubuis also offers a more low-key, non- limited Automatic counterpart that features a similar visual appeal but confines the setting to the inner bezel ring and foregoes the bi- retrograde date function.